Bariloche in 3 days

DAY 1 - Chico circuit and Bariloche town centre

After a travel day from Iguazu Falls to Bariloche, and checking in at Costas del Nahuel Hosteria in the evening, I had a good night’s rest. My room with a private bathroom was clean and cozy with pine furniture, and a window that opened to this breathtaking view of Lake Nahuel Huapi.

Room with a view of Lake Nahuel Huapi

My room rate included breakfast which was served in the hotel on-site restaurant. Here’s the breakfast table in the morning:

Breakfast at Costas del Nahuel Hosteria

There were plenty of seats in the restaurant and it was never full on the four days that I was there. The entire width of the restaurant had floor to ceiling windows that look out to the lake and the snow-capped mountains. The view was simply mesmerizing.

I booked three tours at the hotel front desk, all three tours included hotel pick up and drop off:

1. Half-day Chico circuit on Day 1 morning
2. Full-day Tour of Seven Lakes on Day 2
3. Hal-day tour to Puerto Blest on Day 3 morning

The highlights of my Chico Circuit tour were the panoramic views from Mount Campanario summit, 1050 m in height. It rained a bit early in the morning then cleared up. We took the chair lift from the base of the mountain to the summit.  The air was fresh and it definitely felt like spring. Here are some pictures. Click to enlarge them.

View from Mount Campanario, Bariloche

View from Mount Campanario, Bariloche

Hotel Llao Llao, Bariloche

After the Chico Circuit tour, I was dropped off at my hotel. I decided to walk to the town centre for lunch. Bariloche is also well known for chocolates. There are many chocolate shops where staff offered free samples. There were lots of choices and some of the chocolate designs were unique. I made a mental note to return on my last day to pick up some as gifts to take home.

Chocolatier in Bariloche

Bariloche town square

DAY 2 - Tour of Seven Lakes

This full-day tour took our tour group from Bariloche to Villa La Angostura, and to the seven lakes: Lakes Espejo, Correntoso, Falkner, Villarino, Escondido, Machonico and Lacar. Villa La Angostura is a charming mountain village with lots of small shops and restaurants along the main street. Our tour bus would stop at each lake, to let us get down, view the Andean Patagonian scenery and take pictures. Here are some highlights:

Main street in Villa La Angostura

Spring flowers

Tour of seven lakes

Cows at road side

Calm water

Pretty waterfall

Lake hidden behind trees

Cows on mountainside

Interesting rock formations

DAY 3 - Puerto Blest

This morning I took the half-day tour by shuttle from Bariloche to Puerto Panuelo, then a relaxing ride by ferry boat from Puerto Panuelo to Puerto Blest. The entrance to this area of Lake Nahuel Huapi is surrounded by Mounts Capilla and Millaqueo, as well as Sentry Island. This is also one of the rainiest places in Argentina so it was no surprise that we had rain during our visit. When we got off the ferry, we walked up the wooden steps to Los Cantaros Lagoon, where there is a cascade, and Port Blest can be seen on the opposite shore.

Waterfalls near Puerto Blest

Wooden walkway

Cascade, Puerto Blest

Ferryboat in the rain, Lake Nahuel Huapi

In the afternoon, I walked into Bariloche town centre to buy a few gifts, including chocolates, before returning to my hotel and getting ready to fly home the next day.

My travel day from Bariloche to Toronto would include five airports (Bariloche, Aeroparque J. Newbery in Buenos Aires, Ezeiza International Airport in Buenos Aires, Washington Dulles and Toronto Lester Pearson International Airport). All connections were fine and I was back at home with fond memories of my trip to Argentina.

Have you been to Bariloche, Argentina? I'd love hearing from you. Please take the time to leave a comment.

Iguazu Falls

I flew from Aeroparque Jorge Newbery airport (airport code AEP) in Buenos Aires to Iguazu International Airport (airport code IGR) with Aerolinas Argentinas. Jorge Newbery airport is 2 km northeast of downtown Buenos Aires. Iguazu Falls is about 1300 km (812 miles) north of Buenos Aires. Flying time is less than 2 hours. A bus ride would take approximately 16 hours.

My flight from Buenos Aires was delayed for about half an hour. From the plane, I got an aerial view of the lush green vegetation and the river below. Notice the reddish-brown colour of the water. One tip is not to wear white when you visit Puerto Iguazu as your whites will show the reddish brown dirt fairly quickly. Click to enlarge the pictures.

After landing, from Iguazu airport, I took a 20-minute cab ride to Hosteria Los Helechos and checked in. The front desk staff spoke some English. My room with private bathroom was on the ground floor. It was clean but I thought the lighting in the room could be brighter. The weather was hot and humid, about 36C (96F). The hotel has a garden, an informal restaurant, and a small lobby. Here's the entrance.

Hosteria Los Helechos entrance

I took a walk outside the hotel. It’s set on a tree-lined residential street, and within walking distance to the bus station. I had dinner at the hotel and went to bed early.

The next day, after breakfast (included in my room rate), I walked to the bus station, bought return tickets to go to Iguazu Falls, which is about 26 km away (16 miles). There is frequent bus service from the city of Puerto Iguazu to Iguazu Falls. Just look for the sign “Cataratas”.

Iguazu Falls are waterfalls of the Iguazu river on the border of Argentina and Brazil. You can visit the falls from either country but the Argentine side has almost 80% of the falls. Iguazu Falls are located within the Iguazu National Park which was declared World Heritage by UNESCO in 1984. In November 2011, Iguazu Falls were chosen one of the World’s Natural Wonders in a global poll organized by the Swiss Foundation New Seven Wonders.

Having been to Niagara Falls in Ontario, Canada several times, I was curious to see Iguazu Falls in Argentina. I bought my ticket to enter the National Park and went to the Visitor Centre to pick up a pamphlet with a map for my self-guided tour. During my visit, it was cloudy in the morning, very warm and humid, then it started raining in the afternoon. I had my rain poncho on but still got soaked as there was way too much moisture.

There are three main trails on the Argentine side of the waterfalls. The Green Trail is a 15 minute walk to the falls. The view of Iguazu Falls was breathtaking and awe-inspiring! It was a wonderful first sight with a series of huge water falls in front of me. The Lower Circuit Trail is 1400 m long (less than 1 mile). This trail affords panoramic views of the main falls, lateral falls and the vegetation which surrounds them. The Upper Circuit Trail is 650 m long (less than 1/2 mile). The accessible walkways take you along the upper lip of the falls. There are no steps and stairs on this trail. The trails were well maintained with many lookouts. The lush green vegetation and tropical climate made this setting very different from Niagara Falls. Click to enlarge the pictures below.

My first sight of Iguazu Falls

A lookout at Iguazu Falls

Powerful waters of Iguazu Falls

I then lined up to take the Rainforest Train to Garganta station. While we were waiting, I saw a coati climbed on the seat of the train. It didn’t seem to be afraid of the visitors.

Rainforest train, Iguazu National Park

A coati, Iguazu National Park

From Garganta station, I walked the trail, 1100 m long, to Devil’s Throat (Garganta del Diablo). The walkways cross the upper river from island to island to reach the viewing balcony. By this time, the rain drops were huge and water was raging below my feet. The bridges had see through gaps so I could see the Iguazu river below me. Devil’s Throat did not disappoint! The water was swelling and raging below, plus the heavy rain coming down from the sky so basically water, water and water everywhere. My socks and walking shoes were soaked but I had a fantastic time experiencing the natural sights, sounds, and smell.

On my way out, I stopped by La Selva restaurant which is on site for dinner. The food and service were both very good.

I highly recommend a visit to Iguazu Falls and Iguazu National Park in Argentina. If I had more time, I would like to spend at least another full day to re-visit the falls. I think two full days at the National Park would allow a more leisure pace to explore the trails, and more time to take pictures. On the second day, you also receive 50% off the entry ticket price.

For more information, visit http://www.iguazuargentina.com/en/

Have you visited Iguazu Falls? Would you consider visiting Iguazu National Park after reading about it? I’d love hearing from you. Please take the time to leave a comment.

Coming up: Bariloche.

Buenos Aires in 3 days

DAY 1 - Buenos Aires Historical Centre

Flying from Toronto to Buenos Aires, with a stop over in Washington DC, I arrived at Argentina’s main international airport Ezeiza Ministro Pistarini (airport code EZE) around 1:30 AM local time. The airport is about 42 km (26 miles) to the west of Buenos Aires. After going through immigration, I went to TaxiEzeiza, the official taxi booth, to get a cab to my hotel. Great thing about arriving so early in the morning in a big city is there is no traffic! I rolled down the window to feel the nice, cool air. November is spring time here. The ride from the airport to my hotel took about 35 minutes. Check in at hotel Ibis was quick. I got a basic, clean and quiet room. Then it was time to rest after a long flight.

After five hours of sleep and a nice shower, I felt refreshed. My room rate included breakfast which was served on the main floor. There were hot and cold food and beverage choices, as well as fresh fruits. The hot coffee was most welcoming!

I chose hotel Ibis Buenos Aires Congreso for its central location. Even though the subway line was close by, I didn’t need to use it. I walked for a few hours to explore the historical centre of Buenos Aires. It’s a great walking city. I had no trouble navigating the main streets, from Congreso to Plaza de Mayo. The weather was sunny with high 25C (75F).  Some pictures from my walk are below. Click to enlarge them.

La Casa Rosada (The Pink House) - Office of the President of Argentina

The main Cathedral behind the jacaranda trees

One of the main avenues in Buenos Aires

Congreso (Argentinian Parliament building)

Having a cafe con leche and three medialunas at the historic Cafe Tortoni was a great pleasure.

Cafe Tortoni since 1858

Inside Cafe Tortoni

A map of Cafe Tortoni and Argentine Tango Academy:

DAY 2 - Recoleta and a Tango Show

It was sunny this morning, with high around 27C. The weather forecast called for rain in the afternoon. After breakfast at the hotel, I walked about four hours to explore Recoleta area of Buenos Aires.

Recoleta is an affluent neighbourhood with lovely homes. I viewed an art exhibit at the Centro Cultural Recoleta, browsed beautiful shops along Avenida Alvear and visited Recoleta Cemetery, the resting place of Eva Peron (Evita), the former First Lady of Argentina. The cemetery has many elaborate tombs.

Pictures of some of the architecturally beautiful buildings I passed by on this walk are below. Click to enlarge them.

Teatro Colon

Jacaranda trees in full bloom

Teatro Cervantes

A coffee break at Cafe La Biela, another historic cafe in the city, was enjoyable.

Inside Cafe La Biela

I walked back to my hotel, had lunch and stayed in to catch up on email while it rained outside.

In the evening, I went to the hotel front desk to book a last minute Tango show with Senor Tango.The tour cost about $20 Canadian, including hotel pick up and drop off. I didn’t know what to expect. Turned out it was a fantastic show with non stop dancing, singing, from 10:30 pm to 1:30 am! I was glad I got some rest when it rained earlier in the day, otherwise I would not be able to stay up that long.

The auditorium was large and had a few hundred people in attendance. The show started with two real horses on the stage, about 14 to 20 dancers taking turn to perform, an orchestra, two main singers, two back-up singers who looked like twins, and ended with the song Evita, the flags of Argentina came down in the centre stage and confetti. I lucked out, sitting about five steps from the stage and the orchestra so it was real close up.

The end of a fantastic Tango show

One tip: If you’re coming to the show with a tour bus, note the bus number and the driver’s name before you get off so that when you leave the show, you’ll find the right bus to get back to your hotel. There were a lot of buses waiting outside when the show ended. 

DAY 3 - San Telmo and Calle Florida

After breakfast I walked to San Telmo, the oldest neighbourhood in Buenos Aires, and spent a couple of hours exploring. The cobblestoned streets and beautiful building architecture in San Telmo made the walk very rewarding. San Telmo is well known for its antique fair on Sunday from about 10 AM to 4 PM so if you’re in the city on Sunday, go to the fair. If you can’t make it to San Telmo on a Sunday, it’s still fun to stroll along Calle Defensa, or walk around Plaza Dorrego.

A coffee break at Cafe Dorrego was another enjoyable moment. I really like the old coffee shops in Buenos Aires.

A street in San Telmo

In the afternoon, I walked to Calle Florida area. It’s a more modern, pedestrian area, lined with shops and restaurants. It was fun to do window shopping and people watching here. I didn’t buy anything though as I still had another six days in Argentina.

Have you been to Buenos Aires? I'd love to hear from you. Please take the time to leave a comment.

Coming up: Iguazu Falls and Bariloche.

Exploring Argentina solo

How I spent 9 days in Argentina

The first time I visited South America, I chose to go to Argentina. It was in November and I had nine days to make this solo trip. I knew Argentina is a big country (8th largest in the world) and with nine days, I would need to focus on just a few sights. Nevertheless, I was thrilled to be able to go.

After doing my research, and based on my interests, I came up with the following rough itinerary:

• 3 nights in Buenos Aires to visit the capital city of Argentina
• 2 nights in Iguazu to visit Iguazu Falls
• 4 nights in Bariloche to visit the the Lake district and Nahuel Huapi National Park

The flight distance from Toronto to Buenos Aires is 8,926 km (5,547 miles). Iguazu Falls is about 1300 km (812 miles) north of Buenos Aires. Flying time is less than 2 hours. Bus ride would take approximately 16 hours. Bariloche is about 1590 km (990 miles) south west of Buenos Aires, and very close to Chile. Flying time is about 2 hours. Bus ride would take 18-20 hours. Train service in Argentina is limited, with fewer departure times and destinations than long distance bus service.

Due to my time constraint, I decided to take internal flights to Iguazu and Bariloche. All domestic flights would go through the capital city. I booked the following flight plans with Expedia:

• Return international flights Toronto- Buenos Aires with a stop over in Washington DC both ways (United Airlines)
• Return domestic flights Buenos Aires-Iguazu (Aerolineas Argentinas)
• Return domestic flights Buenos Aires-Bariloche (Aerolineas Argentinas)

Next, I booked three places for my stay by contacting the hotels directly. All three included breakfasts in their room rates:

• Hotel Ibis Buenos Aires Congreso
• Hosteria Los Helechos in Iguazu
• Costas del Nahuel in Bariloche

With the flights and hotel bookings done, I packed my essentials in a carry-on, went through my travel checklist and was ready for my trip. Buenos Aires here I come!